The Hokkaido sea urchin box that we had the other day at L’Envol made us craving for a trip to Hokkaido. Every summer, tourists from all over Japan and the world flock to Hokkaido and Shakotan, in particular, to sample the freshest and tastiest sea urchin (uni) in the world. Sea urchin from Hokkaido is considered the best as they live in cold water feasting on umami-rich high-quality kelp. A summer trip to the sea urchin paradise is something we look forward to with great anticipation every year – except this year, unfortunately.
The Shakotan Peninsula (積丹半島), on the west coast of Hokkaido, Japan, is a mountainous peninsula famous for its catch of sea urchin (uni) and the three great capes: Kamui, Shakotan, and Ōgon. It’s about an hour drive from Otaru on Route 229.
The Sea Urchin Season
In order to avoid overfishing in the area, sea urchin can only be harvested at certain times of the year. When the fishing ban is lifted from Mid-May/June to August/September, varies year from year, the local fishermen will be hauling in fresh catches of sea urchin daily. Depending on the season, the best catch of the day may come from one of the five fishing bays (four in Shakotan plus Otaru) along the coastline.
The local fishermen shops usually offer their catch of the day in that particular bay and the local restaurants around the area would offer catches from all different bays (as well as other areas in Hokkaido) depending on the quality but at a higher price. Of course, this yellow delicacy is best served shortly after being picked (i.e. the local catch); though having a variety of sea urchin from other Hokkaido areas to try out at the restaurant is a good option, especially for tourist.
Types of Sea Urchin
There are two kinds of sea urchin that are caught along the coast in the Shakotan area: Murasaki uni, which is yellow in colour, and Bafun uni, which is more dark orange/red. Murasaki uni is the more common type found in the Shakotan area and it comes from a dark purple sea urchin with long pointed spines. Bafun uni comes from a smaller sea urchin and harvested from the much deeper sea – thus more scarce (and much higher price).
While they have similar flavours, there is a quite a distinct difference in taste between the two. Murasaki uni has a clean, delicate, and mildly sweet taste; while Bafun uni has much bolder taste and sometimes a slightly bitter notes. Personally, we would prefer Murasaki uni; especially when we are in the Shakotan peninsula as it is fresh and value for money.
Let’s Eat!
Newly picked sea urchin is so fresh that you can still taste the flavour of the sea. It is so creamy, it melts in your mouth! We love to have it over rice (i.e. an uni-don). It’s a mouthful of delicious wonder when the fresh sea urchin is combined with the soft moist Japanese rice: a rich, deep explosion of elegant sweetness and umami.
Local Fishermen Shops
We think the two best local fishermen shops are Misaki and Nakamura-ya:
Misaki
Nakamura-ya
Local Restaurant
Although the local fishermen shops are very good, the local restaurants sometimes are even better (but at a higher price). If pricing is not a big concern, we would definitely prefer one of the restaurants in the area.
Rinko
Rinko is a popular one among tourists as it is the only one at the Shimamui coast lookout. We tried it once but we didn’t really like it and prefer the other two restaurants below.
Ajidokoro Shakotan
Our favourite is Ajidokoro Shakotan. It’s at a campsite up on a small hill and the building itself doesn’t really look like a seafood restaurant. Yet, they serve the most wonderful seafood and sea urchin rice. It also has a wonderful view of the Shakotan bay. We have been to this place many times and every time we left happy and satisfied.
Baby Lopei loves this restaurant so much that he helped out at the kitchen and became part of the team.
Cafeteria Ushio
Other than Ajidokoro Shakotan, the cafeteria Ushio is also a nice stop – especially after a fun walk at Cape Kamui Misaki.
Sea urchin at onsen ryokan
Another way to enjoy Shakotan sea urchin is to have it at one of the onsen ryokan around the area. One of our favourite onsen ryokan in Hokkaido is Otaru Kourakuen. We have been there many times over the years (before the fire in 2014 and after it re-opened in 2016) and had wonderful stay there each and every time.
Did you enjoy the trip to the sea urchin paradise as much as we do? We surely hope that we can go there again next summer!